Fascinators for Curly and Afro Hair You'll Love

From the Merve Bayindir atelier in London: which mounts suit textured hair, where to place a piece on a puff, a bun, braids or locs, and eight hand-made pieces to try.

Most advice on wearing a headpiece is written with straight hair in mind: slide in a comb, pin it tight, done. Fascinators for curly and afro hair need a different approach. A comb raked through loose coils can snag and break them, a narrow band pressed onto the edges puts tension on the most fragile hair on the head, and a piece that relies on grip rather than anchoring will slide off a springy curl pattern within the hour. The good news is that textured hair is often easier to anchor a piece to than straight hair. It simply needs to be done in the right place.

Eight pieces that suit textured hair

Chosen for their mounts: wide or padded bands that sit on the hair without pinching, and combined mounts that hold a larger piece steady. Prices include UK VAT.

SERAPHINA HEADBAND

£550

A violet velvet headband on a sculpted band of plush, lustrous pile, with a spray of deep purple feathers bursting upward from one side and a gilded metal fan of branch detailing at the base. The soft pile sits comfortably on curls, and the upward flare adds height above a full afro.

SELAN HEADBAND

£600

A powder blue satin padded headband with handcrafted floral embellishments in peach, dusty blue, pale yellow and muted green, the translucent petals edged in fine gold. The padded band spreads its hold across a wider area of the head rather than pressing at one line.

PEACOCK'S SERENADE HEADBAND

£350

A pinkish-ivory silk sateen headband on a semi-high shape that sits softly along the crown, with two ivory peacock feathers placed like a bow at the side and a cluster of pearls at their centre. A light, easy piece for braids, twists or a silk press.

EBON ROSE HEADBAND

£550

A black silk sateen headband on a semi-high shape, with a single swirling black sateen rose on the right and a black net veil falling forward across the face. Striking against a defined curl pattern or a sleek low bun.

CHARLESTON HEADBAND

£550

A sturdy band wrapped in soft, vibrant pink fabric for a secure fit, with a pink rose and green leaves to one side and a pink mesh veil draped across the band. Several shades of pink in one piece, for weddings and parties.

OCEAN DREAM FASCINATOR

£1,350

An ocean blue button fascinator on a sculptural sinamay base with a wave-like crinoline double swirl and wired resin flowers. Fitted with a wire headband and elastic, a combined mount that holds a larger piece steady without a comb.

ICY GRACE FASCINATOR

£900

An icy blue tall fascinator on a sinamay base that curves upward in shell-like waves, set with metallic resin flowers. It is fitted with a wire headband and an elastic, so it can be worn with hair out, in a puff or in an updo.

GOZO FASCINATOR

£2,200

A hot pink fascinator on a large oval sinamay base, with silk organza violets in purple, orange, yellow and blue and silk leaves down one side. It is fitted with a wire headband, a comb and an elastic, so the comb can be set into a twist or braid base while the band and elastic share the load.

At a glance

Protect the hairline first

The edges and the hairline are the most fragile hair on the head, and constant pulling there over hours is what leads to traction hair loss, the thinning dermatologists see after years of tight styles and tight accessories. A headpiece worn for one day will not cause that on its own, but it should never add to the strain.

• Choose width over grip. A wide, padded or fabric-covered band spreads the hold across the head. A narrow, hard band concentrates it on one line.

• Set the band back. Place it about an inch behind the hairline and let it sit on the hair, not pressed onto the edges.

• Take the band behind the ears, following the shape of the head, rather than forcing it forward.

• Pain means stop. If a piece aches, pinches or leaves a mark, it is too tight or in the wrong place. Move it before it becomes a headache.

Security should come from the anchor, never from tension. If it hurts, it is too tight.

Where to place it, style by style

Defined curls and wash-and-go

A headband is the kindest mount. Set it back from the hairline and let the curls fall forward over and around the band so it disappears. Avoid dragging a comb through the curls; if a piece has a comb, anchor it into a small twist made for the purpose.

Afro, worn out

A full afro gives a headband plenty to sit on. A wide band set back from the hairline, with the piece to one side, frames the shape rather than flattening it. Pieces with height, feathers or an upward flare balance the volume well.

High puff

Set the piece forward and to one side of the puff's base, not on top of the puff itself, where it will tip and flatten the curls. A headband worn in front of the puff also works, with the piece sitting to one side.

Low bun or updo

Set the piece to the side of the bun, anchored into the smoothed hair above it. A comb can go into the base of the bun, where the hair is gathered and firm, rather than into loose hair.

Braids and twists

Braids are one of the best anchors there is. Slide a comb or pins into the base of several braids together, never into a single braid, so the weight is shared. With freshly installed braids, which are often tight at the scalp for the first few days, wear a headband rather than a comb and keep it loose.

Locs

Anchor into the base of the locs, across several at once, and never thread pins through the body of an individual loc. A wide band worn over the locs is the simplest option of all.

Silk press

Moisture is the enemy of a silk press, and humidity or rain can revert it within hours. Choose a headband over anything that needs pinning into the hair, carry an umbrella, and keep the piece light so it does not flatten the finish.

Wigs and units

Anchor the piece to the wig or unit and its cap rather than to your own hairline. A headband worn over the unit is the easiest option; pins should go into the wig's own base.

How to anchor a comb without snagging

• Make the anchor first. A small twist, a flat pin curl or two crossed pins in an X give a comb something firm to hold.

• Insert the comb into the anchor, teeth towards the face, sliding it forward gently until it holds.

• Never rake through loose coils. A comb pushed through loose curls snags, pulls and can break the hair.

• Hide an elastic under the hair at the nape rather than stretching it tight; it should rest, not pull.

Our guide to wearing a fascinator covers the basics, and our note on measuring for a hat explains why you should measure with your hair styled as you will wear it on the day: volume adds to the size.

How our mounts are made

Every piece in this edit is hand-made in our London atelier, with the mount chosen for the weight and shape of the piece: padded and fabric-covered bands for comfort, wire headbands shaped to the head, elastics set to rest rather than grip, and combs sewn to the underside so their teeth face forward. Merve Bayindir is a member of the British Fashion Council, with pieces selected for the Royal Ascot Style Guide. Every order arrives in a custom box, with worldwide DHL Express shipping included.

Frequently asked questions

Can you wear a fascinator with afro hair?

Yes. A wide or padded headband set about an inch behind the hairline is the easiest mount, and a full afro gives the band plenty to sit on. Place the piece to one side.

How do you wear a fascinator with curly hair?

Choose a headband or a combined headband and elastic mount, set it back from the hairline and let the curls fall over the band. If a piece has a comb, anchor it into a small twist rather than raking it through loose curls.

Where do you put a fascinator on a high puff?

Forward and to one side of the puff's base, not on top of the puff itself, where it will tip and flatten the curls.

Can you wear a fascinator with braids or locs?

Yes. Anchor combs or pins into the base of several braids or locs at once, never into a single one. A wide band worn over them is the simplest option.

Why does my fascinator hurt my hairline?

It is too tight or pressing on the edges. Move the band about an inch back, choose a wider or padded band, and take it behind the ears rather than forcing it forward.

Find your fascinator

All eight are hand-made in our London atelier. Browse our full range of headbands, luxury headbands, fascinators and hatinators, or our wedding hats if the occasion is a wedding. When the date is close, our ready to ship pieces dispatch the next working day. The right fascinators for curly and afro hair are the ones that sit on the hair, not against it.